While in Beijing, whenever I told a Chinese person that I live in Kunming, they said, “Kunming tianqi hen hao: Kunming’s weather is really nice.” (As an aside, the word for weather, tianqi, is a combination of sky plus air) Mild winters and summers that don’t get too hot combine to give Kunming a good meteorological reputation. Its nickname is the Spring City.
But if you show up here at the wrong time, you will think this reputation undeserved. Kunming’s rainy season lasts from May to October, but this doesn’t mean that it rains every day, or even every week. You can come here during this time and experience nothing but blue skies and sun. But it also might rain for a solid week.
Right now, rainy season is showing off just how punishing it can be. For the past 10 days or so, we have had nearly uninterrupted rain. Sometimes the drizzle is so light that it’s not worth carrying an umbrella. Other times, the downpour is so heavy that an umbrella can’t protect you. When it rains in Kunming, the temperature drops several degrees, but when the sky clears, it suddenly gets warm again. I’ve been out recently in a sweater and jacket, but had to strip down to a t-shirt when the rain let up.
Like most people, I enjoy a little xiayu. I especially like the way it sounds from inside my apartment. My windows are all sheltered by plastic hoods; when it rains hard enough the beautiful sound of the rain tapping on them is a comforting reminder that I'm safe and warm. But not everyone is so fortunate. The rainstorms that are a mild annoyance to me, (sopping wet socks and shoes, unable to do laundry because I can’t hang it out to dry) to some people are deadly.
Mudslides, accidents and flooding are problems throughout Yunnan right now, and right here in Kunming people who live in shacks on the outskirts of town don’t enjoy the same protection that I do from the rain. I visited a family yesterday who had a bucket in the middle of their floor to catch rain that came through their leaky roof.
Here are some stories on the flooding in Yunnan and elsewhere:
GoKunming: HEAVY RAINS BATTERING YUNNAN
China Daily: Rainstorm hampers rescue efforts after colliery flood traps 69
http://www.chinadaily.com.cn/china/2007-07/30/content_5445845.htm
On a lighter note, take a look at this photo. It's not exactly pretty, but there is a lot going on. Notice the guy carrying an umbrella while riding his bike, the suits on the corner, the two girls in matching outfits walking in lockstep and sharing an umbrella, the man turning his head to see them go by.
According to media reports, Tiger Leaping Gorge may be "saved" from damming. I had heard a month ago that this announcement might come out, but that plans were really still proceeding as normal. And I know that a month ago, I heard dynamite blasting around the gorge. In any event, plenty of other sections of the Yangtze are still being dammed, but Tiger Leaping is supposedly saved for now.
